Showing posts with label ireland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ireland. Show all posts

Saturday, February 14, 2015

On The Set of Jimmy's Hall - Leitrim Ireland

Jimmy's Hall screenwriter, and former human rights lawyer Paul Laverty is certainly no stranger to controversy -- you only have to look at the comments on Gerry Regan's article to see the kind of reactions his statements create. Director Ken Loach said, in the 'Spirit of 45' documentary, that his whole career has been "going up against those who have control over the distribution of his films and are the guardians of the nation's politics and the media's pro-government agenda of political censorship in England and Ireland.'

Ken and Paul seem to have a style of filmmaking that was birthed from a shared desire to capture the mood of the times, no matter how intense or controversial. In his interview with me, Paul said that it is actually a simple process, and yes, on the surface, it is. I believe their treatment of and approach to a story is closer to the truth of the times because of their simple style, closer than most filmmakers would have the patience or courage to attempt. I love these guys!


I was invited to witness this style of filming on the set of Ken Loach's latest and perhaps last feature film “Jimmy's Hall," about James Gralton, the only Irish citizen to be deported by the Irish Government without a trial.
Here is a little phone video & interview I did from the set with Paul Laverty

Among the actors were some real members of Ireland's progressive Sinn Finn political movement, born in the tumult of Ireland's freedom struggle more than a century ago, adding to the portrayal's realism. The scene portrayed members of the Irish Republican Army meeting with Jimmy and members of the community in the hall during a local land arbitration, asking him to appear with them when they take on the Earl of Kingston for evicting a family from its holding.

The discussion was about the risks involved and the tough choice of having to pick Jimmy's battles. The first takes of the scene played out straightforwardly, then Loach had the actors add their own overlays to portray a genuinely heated discussion. Many takes later the scene became emotionally explosive and powerful and yet still adhered to the script. It was a thrilling process for me to watch unfold.

I also spoke to John Rooney, a local historian and friend of the Gralton family, who is writing his own play about this multi-layered story and his strong desire to "set the record" straight. Gralton was extremely well respected in Leitrim, especially for his support of the tenants over the landlords and 'land grabbers.'

The outrage at Gralton's treatment by the Church and government still lingers, so there are those who worry that the film will not do the man justice. I can say that although I only witnessed one scene, I felt it was a perfect marriage of Sixteen Films, the courage of James Gralton and the Leitrim people who banded together in this little corner of Ireland to continue the Easter Rising's struggle for basic human rights.


I asked Paul about their style of filmmaking and how he thought Jimmy would react to the condition in Ireland today (see my video interview above).

I wish there were more companies like Sixteen Films, which, to me, harken back to a time of storytelling when the aim was to enlighten not manipulate, degrade and create devolution of the human mind and spirit. We shall see if Loach et al live up to everyone's expectations when the film is released.

From Ireland to America - The Kennedy Homestead

On my last day in Ireland, before taking an early flight out of Dublin, fellow Wild Geese member and Irish-American Wexford farmer Oisin O'Connell offered to complete my Irish Tour by taking me to experience New Ross. As usual, I had no idea of where I was going until I got there and the only preparation I had was my charged phone with lots of storage as it was also my video and photo cam -- this was the quintessential no-frills journalistic tour.

Our first stop was the new multimedia visitor center at the Kennedy Homestead in Dunganstown, and we were both amazed at how much emotion this exhibit evoked in both of us. At one point, deep in thought and emotion, I found that I had missed what our tour guide was saying to me -- until I heard the words "... when John met my Grandmother," or words like it. I then realized I was talking to Patrick Grennan, Mary Ryan's grandson. It was Patrick's determination, through all these years, to keep the homestead, which is also his home, open to visitors. All I can say is I can now testify to the vaunted 'Kennedy charm' first hand. ... I believe something in their DNA really is 'magical'.

Here is a short video of Oisin during his own Kennedy 'moment

From Ireland to America - JFK Ancestor on The Dunbrody Famine Ship


It was a big year for New Ross, County Wexford. In June the new visitor center opened at the Kennedy Homestead in Dungannon kicking off the 50 year JFK homecoming celebrations. At the Dunbrody Famine Ship Irish Emigration Experience, a new boardwalk on the quayside was completed linking the Dunbrody, the ship that Patrick Kennedy took during the famine for a new life in Boston, to where JFK spoke in June 1963.

For the first time, permission was granted for a flame from the Eternal Flame at President Kennedy's graveside in Arlington National Cemetery to be used in the lighting of the Emigrant Flame from the Gathering torch. 30 members of the Kennedy family were there.

As soon as Wild Geese member Oisin O'Connell and I walked in the door of the Dunbrody Visitor's center, we were met by Sean Reidy, CEO of the JFK trust. Mr. Reidy shared what an amazing emotional experience the town had during the celebrations and welcomed

TheWildGeese.comwith open arms. We received our tickets as original passengers and proceeded to go through the audio-visual presentation of the very sad but hopeful immigrant experience prior to boarding, the journey on the replica of the Dunbrody, and finally the arrival in North America. I was surprised to see that the Dunbrody's most frequent destination was the tragic Grosse Ile in Quebec, Canada, but I now know why this is one of Ireland's most popular attractions.


We went up to the cafe to see the Irish America Hall of Fame and found the induction of the San Patricio Battalion of Mexico. Oisin first came to our attention when we helped to promote ZorroFest 2013 in Wexford town which was a celebration of the life of 17th-century Wexfordian William Lamport (Guillèn de Lombardo), the "Irish Zorro".

We had one more stop on my New Ross tour which was the 'Ros Tapestry' across the street... but that is a whole other story for another day.

I cannot thank Oisin enough for taking me on this memorable journey and as we left the 'Quayside Experience' Oisin insisted I do the JFK handshake and I am so happy I did!



Read more on the 2013 50th JFK Homecoming Celebrations in New Ross, Wexford: http://www.jfk50ireland.com/

Friday, February 13, 2015

From Ireland to America - Irish Famine Graveyards

Memorial garden of peace dedicated to Father Mychal Judge of the New York Fire Department, the first official casualty of 9/11 and son of Leitrim emigrants.


Our Wild Geese teammate Anna Porter took me to visit two 'famine' graveyards in the county of Leitrim.  At first sight there are just stone walls enclosing areas of beautiful Irish green grass, but once inside I could feel the intensity under my feet.


I entered through the old gate of the Drumshanbo Famine Graveyard and saw the uneven ground and the barely visible small stone enclosures from approximately 500 unmarked graves. A rosary hung from a tree in the center, and as I walked a wave of nausea and depression came over me as the reality of the events here suddenly took hold.


I did what I always do when visiting cemeteries I suggested that if anyone was still hanging around that they go swiftly and directly to the light, this experience was complete, and it was time to move on.

The ground under my feet puddled as I walked even though this was one of the sunniest summers on record in Ireland. The population in Leitrim was reduced by 40,000 during the famine and was one of the hardest-hit counties -- the saturated land contributed greatly to the failure of the crops.




At the front gate is a plaque from the Leitrim Society of New York and there are five other famine graveyards in the area. Most, if not all, have dedication plaques sponsored by this group.



The second graveyard was in Carrick-On-Shannon "in the shadow of the old workhouse" for the proper internment of about 900 victims of the famine, mostly children,




In 1998, the Carrick District Historical Society commemorated the 150th anniversary of the Famine by creating a memorial garden from the then-overgrown site.  This time there was also a plaque from the people of Carrick acknowledging contributions of the Leitrim Society of New York.

Anna and I sat in front of the fountain for quite a while listening to the water and discussing the plight and current suicide rate in Ireland, due in large part to the mortgage crisis just hitting its peak there. To me it felt lighter in this peaceful garden, as if the recognition of those long-forgotten within elevated the atmosphere.

The editor of the Leitrim Observer wanted to meet with me before I left as he had heard of my activities in the area and my involvement with The Wild Geese -- apparently they have a large New York subscriber base. We couldn't make that meeting happen, but this was just the beginning of my observations of the love affair between the U.S. and Ireland in counties Leitrim and Wexford. 

Loftus Hall the Most Haunted House in Ireland

Originally posted on TheWildGeese.Irish 2013

Loftus Hall Hook Head Peninsula Wexford Ireland
Near the end of my recent trip to Ireland and after my visit to Leitrim for TheWildGeese.Irish, Wexford maritime historian and writer Jack O'Leary took me down to see the Hook Head Peninsula and we passed the infamous 'Loftus Hall' on the way so we agreed to stop in on the way back.  The Halloween 'Legend of Loftus Hall Experience Tour for Adults Only' has been sold out for months! Having a wine and tapas bar and reserved table for after the tour had added to the value of this creative endeavour of the Hall's new owners.
Although there were no indications that anything was going on there and no signs at all,  the road leading up to the hall was opened so we drove in! When we arrived at the back of the hall we saw an entrance to a newly built cafe and, although it was obviously still being converted to create a tourist venue, there were others waiting for the next 'ghost tour' to begin. We had a coffee and some amazing chocolate cake while discovering that we were about to embark on a 'day family' tour but had no idea of what we were in for!

While only a few rooms on the main floor are opened, they are still in the same state of disrepair due to many years of vandalism and neglect since being abandoned. As it turns out we were about to become characters in the 'Mysterious Stranger' ghost story that as been around since the 1700's. Jack became the 'master of the hall' and I a servant.

Loftus Hall-National Music Day Wexford Ireland
Amazingly the staircase is still intact and beautiful but off limits now as they are trying to preserve and renovate from the proceeds of the ghost tours.  We were not allowed to take photos but there are old images and videos online from before this conversion to a 'ghost tour' venue and in July of this year five of Wexford's most promising bands helped to celebrate 'National Music Day' in the Hall.

If you are in Ireland next year around Halloween I highly recommend this tour. Here is a short 'phone' video of our Loftus Hall discovery:

Further reading:
www.loftushall.com
National Music Day at Loftus Hall - independent.ie

My Wexford Gathering in Druidic Carne

For 13 years I had been looking for "The Cross of Ballysheen" County Wexford in historical records and on my journeys with Google streetview.  Finally I was here at 'The Lobster Pot' at Carnsore Point which sits right on the crossroads dividing the old townlands of Ballysheen and Ballyfane.  I had quickly set up a The Wild Geese Gathering event and invited our Wexford members, but the logistics didn't work out so Jack and I had a coffee and a mini gathering.
Wexford Native and Wild Geese Heritage Partner Larry Kirwan of  'Black 47 ''volunteered' local maritime historian Jack O'Leary to help me with my family history research in the Carne area. Jack was wonderful and offered to drive me around.  The first place he took me was to the famous restaurant 'The Lobster Pot' so I could look for the 'Cross of Ballysheen' where Joseph Scallian and Margaret Doyle were married in 1783 during the last penal years in Ireland.  
Everyone around here knew Jack and Larry so this solo Wild Goose received a very warm welcome.  Jack introduced me to his friends, and they are many, but James Maloney, formerly of the Irish Tourist Board / Failte Ireland, was a local Carne resident, historian and also an OPW (Office of Public Works) at Tinturn Abbey!
James showed us a 19th century map of the Nunn's family St. Margaret's estate farm just before he submitted it to the Wexford Historical Society and Our Lady's Island Parish in case one of my ancestors were on the tenant list.  Then he took us on an amazing road trip around the area starting with the estate and when he showed us where the tenant's thatched homes had been. I got that 'I'm home' feeling again.
The estate took us right down to the beach and even though it was cold out I had to get my feet into the Irish Sea, even if James and Jack were yelling out to me that technically it wasn't the Irish Sea!  
I wanted to buy both of them a pint at the Lobster Pot.  While walking the area I shared with James how long I have wanted to see the area that was known to have old cottages on it, but is now private property. He disappeared for a bit while I walked down the road then he came running back calling to me  'let's go!"  
James got permission for us to go into the farm to look around and a member of the family directed us to a field and an old path, once known as the 'church path' that led down to the ruins of the old cottages!
It was like living inside the dream I'd been dreaming for 13 years. We clambered through the field and there it was the 'church path' which we figured went straight to Our Lady's Island Church. There were many baptism and marriage records stating they took place at Ballysheen but also in the many crossroads, priest's houses and homes.
It was the late 1700's and the penal laws were waning and I would imagine Our Lady's Island went underground at that time? I am happy I found the marriage record specifically stating the 'Cross at Ballysheen' that led me to this crossroad, a spot many drive by but was a very special place for the families that lived here. 
I walked the hedges peering through to the other side till i saw that the path had turned into a field with a row of stones, the last remnants of the cottages!  If this Margaret Doyle Scallian was my Margaret Doyle Scallian, then this whole area of hamlets and crossroads was her home.  
We went back to my waiting Guinness and then I realized that I was having my Wexford Gathering after all!  So here we are Jack, James, me and the owners Ciaran and Anne Hearne at The Lobster Pot in beautiful Carne, Wexford. 
The sun was setting and James wanted to get me into the Lady's Island cemetery. In the Wexford Library's Cantwell's Memorial book of the dead, I discovered not only a lot of Scallians buried there but one family of Johnsons who had all the same first names as the first few generations of my Bear Cove, Nova Scotia Johnsons.
My goal for this trip was to follow a hunch that Andrew Scallian, who seems to have arrived in Halifax, Nova Scotia, alone, son of a Joseph Scallian and Margaret Doyle  Co. Wexford was related somehow to William Johnson who also 'arrived' from Co. Wexford. William deeded half a 100-acre lot of his prime oceanfront property in Herring Cove to Andrew the year Andrew married. A Johnson/Scallion marriage resulted in one of my branches, so here I am.  
While I was in 'my office' or the front desk on the research floor of the Wexford library, I met historian Brian Cluer (who is now a WG member) who introduced me to Rex Sinnott (also a new WG member) in New Zealand. I soon discovered that Brian was the author/editor of The Carnsore Chronicles, a site I have spent many hours on for the wealth of research on the history, people and places of Wexford it contains.  Rex has added the Scallian research I discovered to the Scallian data base on his Sinnott Genealogy site, so with all these amazing guys I am finally getting closer to making a real connection across the pond.  
Just south of Ballysheen we often drove by a standing stone in an area called Logansherd.  James said the name meant Long Stone and there were many before the farmers removed them. Another of my goals was to visit druidic sites, especially in the areas my ancestors lived in, an adventure that had a whopping start when I was in Wiltshire prior to coming to Ireland.
This is from Our Lady's Island:
"One famous pagan shrine, possibly a temple to the sun, stood at Carnsore Point where a natural stone structure is believed to have been a Druid's altar. In Penal times this was used as a Mass Rock.
In a list of Irish place-names published in Iris-Leabhar na Gaeilge in 1903, the Irish name for Our Lady's Island is given as Cluain-na-mBan - 'the meadow of the women'. Considering that this locality was the centre of druidical worship, it would not be far-fetched to suggest that Our Lady's Island was in pre-Christian times inhabited by female druids."
This is from The Carnsore Chronicles:
"A 23 ft. long “giant’s grave”, a dolmen (a Breton word), is marked on the six inchOrdnance Survey map 53 that datesfrom 1841.  The map places it near the location of the present windmill number six on Carnsore Point."
In 1979, the first in a series of anti-nuclear protests and free festivals were held on Carnsore Beach.  It was where two of the organizers met for the first time, my new BFFs, James Moloney and Jack O'Leary.  
I was hoping to record Jack's recollections when we were here at the Windmill Farm, the site of the original protest festival, but it was cold and raining and we were pressed for time.  He had told me some wonderful stories though driving along in his old RV of how they pulled it together with no money and Christy Moore.  
Another person there at that first protest was The Wild Geese Admin Anna Porter'spartner, Barne, who was our driver for most of our trek around Leitrim, Sligo and Fermanagh.  Apparently it was the place to be in 1979 ... old hippies make the best people -- the druids would be very pleased indeed!

Ros Tapestry - A Tale Told in Thread


After fellow Wild Geese member Oisen O'Connell had generously taken me on my last Wexford tour via Ballyhack Castle, The Kennedy Homestead in Dunganstown, and the Dunbrody Famine Ship Irish Emigration Experience he said “just one more stop I think you will really like this one” and took me across the street.
Inside the 'The Ros Tapestry' was a small reception area where we purchased tickets and received the equipment for an audio tour. I had no idea whatsoever of what I was about to experience. As we stepped behind the curtain a dazzling display of 15, 6 x 4 ft, vibrantly embroidered tapestries lit up the dark corridors. From one display to the next we were taken on a historical journey of the Anglo-Norman arrival in Wexford and the founding of New Ross by William Marshal and Isabel de Clare.
The tapestries were created by 15 volunteers while Ann Bernstorff researched and designed them. I have to say that this was a powerful experience for me. I had been blessed with the most amazing guides who took me to 2-3 places a day (which is why I am still processing my travels) but I had only general knowledge of where I was and the historical course of events eluded me.
Every panel of this Ros Tapestry Project brought this period of Irish history to life before my eyes. I also discovered why tapestries were so important in the middle ages and as I listened to the commentary, while taking in the scene, I felt an elevated form of understanding, aided I believe by the inclusion of the tactile element so missing in our modern world.
If traveling to Ireland for the first time, I highly recommend starting your journey with The Ros Tapestry as you will inevitably 'bump' into one historical location after another ... I wish I had!
Top Image: "Dermot MacMurrough, King of Leinster had his hopes fulfilled at last when, in May 1169, a small band of 30 knights, and 360 soldiers landed quietly on Bannow Strand, in the south of Wexford" Courtesy of 'The Ros Tapestry'